Page 4 - AIT0419_TelAviv

r 1 p.m. – Time for lunch. The Dallal (7) has tables under rustic vines and the cui-
sine includes seafood, pasta and salads.
r 2.30 p.m. – We stroll on to Levinsky Street with the country’s largest spice mar-
ket (8) where the most magnificent scents of the whole orient welcome us. We
continue along Allenby Street with eclectic buildings from the 1920s. A prime ex-
ample is the Pagoda House (9) at 43 Montefiore Street built by Alexander Levy in
1925 and combining classic European as well as oriental elements.
r 6 p.m. – The nearby Beit Romano (10) shopping centre was completed by the ar-
chitect Meir Horman in 1947 as one of the country’s first temples of consumerism.
In the evenings, the restaurants and bars there boom. In the Teder restaurant, star
chef Eyal Shani creates his famous pizza. We finish the day in the coolest dance
bar of the city, Kuli Alma (11).
Foto: Atlas Hotels Saturday: Searching for traces in the White City

From outside, the Beit Landberg building impresses with mosaics from the 1920s. In-
Hotel Cinema (17), 2000 von • by Leonardo Dwilanski / Kino 1939 von • by Yehuda Magidovitch (1886–1961) r 9 a.m. – We start in the Benedict (12) breakfast haven at 29 Rothschild Boulevard.
side, innumerable breakfast variations are offered around the clock.
r 10 a.m. – A few steps west stands Independence Hall (13) where the independence
of the State of Israel was proclaimed in 1948. The residential building from 1909 is
today a museum. We continue east on the green median where the whole city meets.
Everyone is here: children, bankers, lovers of all sexes, pensioners. For those who
like sweets, a detour to the Max Brenner (14) chocolate paradise is recommended.
r 11.30 a.m. – Past stately villas, we arrive at the large Habima Square (15) flanked
by cultural buildings: The Habima national theatre was built in 1933 by Oskar Kauf-
mann and renovated in 2012 by Ram Karmi. The Charles Bronfman Auditorium is the
city’s largest concert hall and was built until 1957 according to a design by Dov Karmi,
Zeev Rechter and Yaakov Rechter. Then there is the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion for
contemporary art planned by Zeev Rechter and Dov Karmi and completed in 1959.
r Noon – We stroll on through the White City. Besides much information, the Bau-
Foto: Alan Kotok haus Center Tel Aviv (16) has an event room and a shop where we get headphones
for a two-hour Bauhaus tour. Apart from the functional architecture and the socialist

Square impresses which Genia Averbuch implemented from 1934 to 1938. The square
Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art (20), 1971 von • by Dan Eitan und Itzhak Yashar workers’ lodgings, as regards urban development above all the renovated Dizengoff
is a true icon of modernism and probably the only Bauhaus square worldwide. Here
is also the Hotel Cinema (17) in one of the first cinemas in Tel Aviv built by Yehuda
Magidovitch in 1939 where, since 2001, one can spend the night.
J ust 110 years old, Tel Aviv is one of the youngest metropolises by the Mediterra- r 2 p.m. – For a late lunch, we go to the La Shuk (18) where we are served Mediter-
nean. In 1948, the city was merged with the city of Jaffa that is about 4,000 years
ranean temptations of the Israeli cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere.
old and now is officially called Tel Aviv-Yafo. It is the economic and cultural centre of r 4 p.m. – Down Frischman Street we walk on to Rabin Square (19). The city hall
Israel without being the capital or even the largest city – this is Jerusalem in both built between 1954 and 1964 in Brutalism style by Menachem Cohen attracts atten-
cases. Tel Aviv’s title “White City” is due to the over 4,000 buildings constructed in tion from afar. In the square is the Holocaust Memorial by the sculptor Ygal Tumarkin
Bauhaus style starting in the 1930s which have been a UNESCO World Heritage for the from 1975. From here it is not far to the Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art (20) where
last 15 years. Since our weekend begins on Friday, we start our tour already then. an impressive selection of current Israeli art is shown. The building was designed in
1971 by Dan Eitan and Itzhak Yashar and extended by Preston Scott Cohen in 2011.
Friday: Historical testimonies and culinary highlights r 7 p.m. – We end the weekend on the garden level of the museum. Here the Pastell
restaurant (21) offers a view of the nearby sculpture garden and the steadily growing
r 9 a.m. – Early in the morning, we stand in front of the sculpture of a whale (1) skyline of Tel Aviv behind it.
slightly above Jaffa’s port. The sculpture represents the biblical whale which is said
to have spat Jonah ashore here. A tour of the harbour reminds of times past: Arabian
fishermen are repairing their nets while fish is prepared in the restaurants. Particu-
larly popular is the restaurant The Old Man and the Sea (2) where Arabs and Jews
are working, dining and celebrating peacefully together. Then we climb up the steep
alleys past art galleries and small pubs to the Ilana-Goor-Museum (3). The artist and
art collector turns the old into the new and exhibits her own works as well as an ex-
tensive collection including works by Henry Moore, Josef Albers and Frank Gehry
r 11 a.m. – Time for coffee or O-juice from freshly squeezed Jaffa oranges. Two exciting
venues for those interested in the conversion of historic architecture: The former
French hospital built in 1879 and opened as the 5-star Jaffa Hotel (4) in 2018 after the
conversion by John Pawson and Ramy Gill. An the former Ottoman prison, today’s
Setai luxury hotel (5) renovated by Feignin architectural office and Eyal Zvi until 2018.
r Noon – On to Ha Tachana (6) in the Neve Zedek artists’ district where a former sta-
tion and its buildings now have a new use as shops, cafés, restaurants and bars.