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Foto: Marko Priske                                                                                                        Foto: Markus Ebener



             Erinnert an das Grauen: Mahnmal für ermordete Juden (14) von Peter Eisenman • Reminiscent of the horror  Erst Mies van der Rohe, dann Chipperfield: Neue Nationalgalerie (16) • First Mies van der Rohe, then Chipperfield























            Foto: Marko Priske                                                                                                        Foto: Nils Hasenau



             Einzelne Betonstele im Tiergarten: Mahnmal für verfolgte Homosexuelle (15) • Single concrete stele in the Tiergarten  Eggs Benedict und vegane Burritos: Café Frühstück 3000 (17) • Eggs Benedict and vegan burritos




             W    hat do you need for a weekend in Berlin besides comfortable shoes and stamina?   Rohe before his emigration in 1938. Less grand than the Tugendhat House, the flat brick
                                                                          building’s simplicity is quintessential Mies. Now known as the Mies van der Rohe
                  The courage to miss some sights! The city is simply too vast to get it in two days.
             We suggest to venture to the east and then to the west, casually skipping key landmarks   House (6), it serves as an exhibition space for contemporary art.
             like the TV Tower, Humboldt Forum, Philharmonic Hall, Reichstag, Berghain, or KuDamm.   r 16:00 – We leap into the 1950s, arriving on Karl-Marx-Allee (7), the grand boulevard
                                                        th
                                                               st
             Instead, we’ll zigzag through the city’s eventful history from the 19  to the 21  century.  of the young GDR built on the war’s ruins. From Strausberger Platz to Frankfurter
                                                                          Tor (8), nearly two kilometres of “workers’ palaces” stretch out, with richly decorated
             Saturday: From the island of high culture to a Soviet colossal statue  façades of natural stone and ceramics. The architectural style, with its antique-like
                                                                          elements, is considered a quaint mix of Stalinist socialist classicism and the Prussian
             r 10:00 – We start at the Château Royal Hotel (1), furnished with contemporary art   Schinkel School. Incidentally, before and after the “wedding cake” phase, the built style
             by Irina Kromayer and Etienne Descloux, ideally located on a side street off the Unter   was consistently modernist. So when walking along this axis, ideologies joyfully collide.
             den Linden boulevard. First, we head east toward Museum Island (2). With the Altes   Right in the middle: the Architektur Galerie Berlin (9), always worth a visit thanks
             Museum, Neues Museum (3), Bode Museum and Alte Nationalgalerie, you could   to its international exhibition programme. We make a detour to the imposing Soviet
             spend the whole weekend exploring Greek antiquity and Prussian classicism. Unfor-  War Memorial (10) in Treptower Park, built in 1949. The pathos-laden site consists of
             tunately, the Pergamon Museum is closed for renovation. A must-see for architecture   a colossal statue about 30 metres high and a cemetery for Soviet soldiers. Until the fall
             fans: James Simon Gallery (4) (2019) by David Chipperfield Architects, the entrance   of the Berlin Wall, it was the venue for mass events. Today, it makes headlines around
             building of Museum Island with its own exhibition spaces.    May 8th when Putin-friendly Russians gather to commemorate.
             r 12:00 – After a morning of high culture, we walk northeast to Kollwitzplatz in the   r 18:00 – From here, it’s a short walk through Treptower Park and Plänterwald to the
             Prenzlauer Berg district. On Saturdays, the well-heeled bohemians gather at Koll-  Eierhäuschen by the Spree. The historical excursion restaurant has been revived, with
             witzmarkt (5) to shop and toast with oysters, champagne and currywurst. After the   the beer garden Zum Anleger (11) and the restaurant Ei-12437-B (12). Though not cen-
             market bustle, a quiet spot awaits in Lichtenberg. Hidden away on the Obersee is a   trally located, the ambiance and quality of the food make it well worth the trip. The
             jewel of modernism, Landhaus Lemke (1932), the last residence built by Mies van der   best place for a nightcap is the bar at Château Royal with an entertaining mix of guests.

                                                                                                                          AIT 9.2024  •  035
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